Zanskar Indus Confluence

                                            

                                           

      Ladakh, one of the most exotic locations in India, is home to some of the most beautiful gompas, refreshing locations and warm people. The stark mountains change colours as the day unfolds. The setting sun brings on the shades of purple, orange, maroon to the slopes of these lofty mountains. If you travel to this place just as the winter is setting in and the mercury plummeting to -20,  try sitting by the river Indus and listening to the tinkle of the icicles floating on the river. These very stark surroundings sprout into green patches in the summers with sudden new streams flowing between them. 

    Of the many travel stories of Ladakh, today let me tell you the Zanskar Indus confluence at Nimmu. We were excited about our trip and so layered in woollens, since the winter was setting in, we started for the day. On our way we came to two very interesting spots. The first stop was  at Patthar Sahib Gurudwara, a place where Guru Nanak is said to have humbled  a demon who tried to kill him by rolling a boulder down while he was meditating.  However, the bid was futile as the Guru continued his meditation. the livid demon then tried to push the boulder down on him by his foot. The boulder now has an imprint of the foot on one side and the outline of Nanak Lama, the local name given to Guru Nanak, on the other side. 

     Around thirty kilometers from Leh, towards Kargil, the driver stopped the ignition of the vehicle we were travelling in. Surrounded by elevations, the vehicle  started moving uphill on its own. A signboard greeted us thus,

Courtesy Wikipedia

                                    

 It was eerie to feel the vehicle slowly move uphill surrounded by a bare landscape. The driver took great delight in creating a drama out of the incident. We were in the mysterious Magnetic Hill of Ladakh. There  was a rational explanation behind this phenomenon. Since the surrounding elevation had obstructed a view of the horizon, false geographical  references played tricks with the eye. What appeared as an uphill slope was in reality a downhill one which allowed the normal gravitational forces to work on the vehicles. 

    We were now approaching our destination, Zanskar Indus confluence near Nimmu. Ensconced between bare mountains, the road led ahead with a steep drop on one side. Daylight was fading soon and we were rushing against time to reach Nimmu. The wind was sharp and biting into us. The mountains were already casting their long shadows. Finally we reached the point where the river Zanskar flowing rather sluggishly from the Zanskar range, had joined the sparkling and bubbling Indus river. It was breathtaking to watch the contrasting rivers come together with their distinct identity. One was a sprightly and clear blue green Indus while the other was the muddy and slow Zanskar which gradually freezes in the winter. It is said that in the summers it is quite the opposite. The Zanskar river gushes down with great might while the Indus flows placidly. We sat there by the road and watched the waters of the two rivers meet and yet remain distinct.The river then flows to Batalik as one. 

                                              

The Confluence
Courtesy Wikipedia

                                            

        There are many moments when one feels humbled by nature. Zanskar Indus confluence is one such. But then the entire Ladakh region is a humbling experience especially it's people's collective stories of endurance and tenacity. If you ever visit this region do listen to their tales and all told with that twinkle in the eye and faces crinkling into smiles weathered in the harsh climate.

This post was written for the A to Z Challenge.

    

Yielding To Colours

                                             

    And you thought they were only in Amsterdam? Rows and rows of colours, stretching for miles together that acted as the perfect backdrop for the romantic hit number of Silsila, the 70s most talked about Hindi movie. Now, you don’t really have to sigh at the inaccessibility of this riot of colours. Book yourself to Srinagar between late March and mid April and feed your senses to your heart’s content.

                                           

                                                 

   The first time we went through the gate, I was expecting some rows of  tulips interspersed with other plants and flowers to lend relief. The moment my eyes fell on the view spread before, my jaws dropped in disbelief at the spectacular show. Rows and rows of tulips of all possible colours stretched as far as the eye could see. I was looking at ten lakh variety of tulips, and that’s quite a number. This was in 2007 when it was yet to be opened for the public. Blues, reds, yellows, whites, pinks, double coloured, shaded…name it and it was there. I believe they have increased the number now. The Zabarwan  mountain ranges as the backdrop and the Dal lake in the front, the Tulip Garden has good company. It is surrounded by Chashmeshahi gardens of Shalimar and Nishat gardens,  the testimony of aesthetic splendor of Mughal era with fountains, cascading water, a wonderful stone pavilion in the middle of a pool and old fragrant Champa trees.

      However, the Tulip Garden is resplendent in wide range of colours, the perfect blossoms on the short stalks. Walking among them we found we were not the only ones going berserk with the camera.

                                               

    Named as the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden, a brain child of then chief minister of Jammu and Kashmir Ghulam Nabi Azad, it is the largest tulip garden in Asia. A little away around three kilometers up the Zabarwan hill is the Pari Mahal built on th ruins of a Buddhist monastery by Dara Shikoh, a follower of sufism, for his master. It has six terraces with serene views of the Dal Lake and the surroundings overlooking the city. In the distance one can see the Char Chinar in the middle of the Dal Lake, a tiny island garden with four maple trees at the four corners. A visit to Pari Mahal  fills one with calm and one doesn't mind sitting there just watching the world go by. 

   

This post was written for the A to Z Challenge.

                                        

Xatras in Majuli

                   

                                                     
     

            Imagine yourself walking along the periphery of Majuli in Assam, with the swirling and swiftly flowing Brahmaputra and Subansiri all around. This swiftly flowing water can turn tempestuous and carnivorous during the monsoons when it is in spate, chomping off large chunks of land with heart sinking sounds. This is  one trip I am yet to make although it has long been on our list. And  we had better make it fast.

            Now the question is why would anyone want to visit Majuli given the perilous picture painted? That people of this river island stoically endure  massive erosion facing a grim future of painful displacement, is a truth. However there is another truth. Majuli is the cradle of Vaishnavite strand that is a dominant part of Assamese life. It is also home to the many Xatras, the Vaishnavite monasteries that feed not just the spiritual aspirations of the Assamese people but also clothe them in a distinct cultural ethos.

        Having seen my grandfather disappear into the 'naamghor' (prayer room) every morning and evening for the prayers and heard his voice rising into a crescendo with clashing cymbals keeping the rhythm, Xatras have been an enigma. We have had many bhokots (monks) from Kamalabari Xatra visit us to help in conduct the family religious occasions. They were allotted a separate quarter in the house who cooked for themselves and fed us also. They would converse with you but will not touch you. I remember placing uncooked rice, lentils and vegetables on the floor from where they picked up and turned into a makeshift kitchen with separate utensils. And believe me the tastiest and healthiest meals sans any spices or onions and garlic, turned out from those quarters. All the family members across all ages waited eagerly for the meals.    

          I have forever wanted to visit this largest river island in the world to watch the bhokots (monks) conduct the naam (prayers) and also to understand the very core of the teachings of Srimanta Sankardev who began this movement as a way to reform the society against the mindless rituals of the Brahmins by which they dominated the society at large. Srimanta Sankardev's idea was to bring God closer to the common man without the rigid rituals and also to make people understand that there was just one God for everyone. And to this effect this great reformer, saint and  scholar utilised dance, music and drama to bring the diverse society together.

           These Xatras are monasteries where bhokots, the Vaishnavite monks stay to study and perpetuate the teachings of this great saint. It is also home to the classical dance form Xatriya, that the bhokots performed to spread the teachings of the guru through the integral medium of dance, dance drama (ankiya nat), music (borgeet, deh bisar geet) and devotional songs. These art forms have been democratised since and  have been brought to public domain to witness and pursue as a profession. There are many Xatras in Majuli like the Auniati, Kamalabari, Dakhinpat, and many more. The fear of being washed away in soil erosion have prompted many to move to the mainland to escape obliteration. I believe there are now around twenty two Xatras here.

         The Auniati Xatra hosts the famous  palnaam festival in the winters. Samaguri Xatra is famous for masks fashioned out of bamboo and clay which are then used extensively for the Raas Leela. Besides the Xatras, the island is home to the Mishing, Deori and Assamese people whose culture and traditions have further added colour to this island. The Mishing people, who live in quaint stilted bamboo homes, are excellent weavers whose typical motifs and bright thread combinations weave magic into fabric and are very much in demand. Irrespective of their religion or traditions they follow, every villager of Majuli is proud of the Xatras and the Vaishnavite culture of Majuli.

    Two French architects have gifted this island a stilted guest house made on the lines of the traditional Mishing homes with thatched roof lined with Ikorai (reed) and yet with modern amenities. I believe there are village stays also that lets one have a peep into the local people's way of life. I can imagine myself in one of these homes looking out into the twilight with fireflies flitting around. In the distance, the nagada would boom  and faint sounds of a voice rising in a naam ( prayer), reminding the faithful to spend some time to connect with God.

      Will we be able to save this island and preserve the rich culture in it's place of origin in it's natural ambience? Or will all of this be washed away by Brahmaputra or expedite their relocation. I wonder. We need to make this trip fast.

( Dhekiakhuwa Naamghor at Jorhat )

 

This post was written for A to Z Challenge.

   

Walking Around Chail

                                             

       To reiterate my theme for the A to Z Challenge,it is to be our travel stories within India. Today it is the turn for letter "W" to tell it's tale. There are a couple of places with this letter  that we have been to like Wellington and Wular Lake. The former, I've more or less covered in one of my previous posts and the latter was a very short yet fulfilling visit to this lake in Bandipore. But I so wanted to tell you our story about Chail that I took the liberty. I do hope my readers will understand and forgive me. 

                                                       

Sadhupul

        We were driving down from Delhi after picking up the kids from the school, with the rain splashing on the windshield. By the time we reached Chandigarh it was evening and we called it a day. Our idea was to take a break and not do long stretches of driving. Early next morning we kicked off from Chandigarh to follow the Pinjore, Kalka, Solan road to Chail. At Kandaghat the road bifurcates with one arm taking you to Shimla and the other towards Chail. We of course took the latter which is not a national Highway but nevertheless it had it's own charm. Our first "Oh!" moment was Sadhupul where the river Ashwini gurgled under an ancient iron bridge. There are a couple of restaurants that make arrangements for the traveller to sit in the middle of stream to enjoy a couple of drinks and snacks. It's a good place to take a break from the long drive. 

                                                         

Piano Room

        We were soon back on the track and climbing to Chail. Clouds were playing peekaboo with the sun. At many places the dense forest cover of fragrant pines and deodars hardly let the daylight trickle in. The crisp hill air was already working on soothing our nerves. I made a mental note of picking up some of those tantalising ferns of different kinds on my way back. We were accommodated  in an old bunglow, erstwhile guest house, that had wooden floors, wooden staircase, a piano room and a terrace that looked out at the surrounding hills. 

    Our first port of call here was the Chail palace. There is an interesting and colourful story of Chail's spot of prominence. Bhupinder Singh, the Maharajah of Patiala was exiled from Shimla by the British for his alleged dilly dallying with the daughter of the British Commander-in-chief. So he went exploring the neighbourhood of Shimla for a spot that was on higher grounds than the British summer capital. The palace, turned into a heritage hotel now, has a few antique furniture collection and artifacts. It has a sprawling ground edged with forest. There is a " Mowgli Trail" that takes you around the hill on which this palace is built. 

                                                       

Mowgli Trail 

    What I loved the most here was the walk around "Lover's Hill" that had log cabins and cottages for the tourists. The lane along this hill took you to glades with beautiful views. You can explore these trails, break off and walk down some slopes to reach open spaces sprouting toadstools and wild flowers. I would suggest  you carry a picnic basket and find your own spot to relax. 

                                                       

Glade In Lover's Hill

    We were staying in the Rashtriya Military School campus that is the proud host of the highest cricket ground in the world. It was the rainy season, the cricket ground was at it's romantic best covered in mist silhouetting the trees. We managed to have a peep through the locked gates. 

                                                       

Chail Cricket Ground

      Our next stop was the Siddh Baba Temple that is reached climbing the stairs up the hill. Since we were not in a hurry  and also that there were three kids in tow, we took our own time reaching this place. There is another interesting story behind this temple as is wont in hill stations. Initially Bhupinder Singh, smarting from the insult by the British, had chosen this site to build his palace. Soon after construction began, the project was seized by a series of mishaps like built portions falling off or snakes attacking the labourers. It was then that Siddh Baba, a hermit and said to be the protector of Chail, appeared in his dreams and said that this was the place where he had meditated and that his peace should not be disturbed. Bhupinder Singh got a temple built here and took his project to another location ( which was almost hundred meters higher than Shimla). 

     It was difficult to bid adieu to Chail. It had given us tranquility, little surprises like the toadstools and the rainbow that spread in the evening sky. Yes, I did come back with a collection of ferns hoping to grow them in Delhi to remind me of this lovely weekend trip. I leave you with these snaps now which I look at often when the going gets tough.

                                                          

This post was written for A to Z Challenge

         

                                               

Varanasi

Courtesy Wikipedia

                                                     
       There is a marriage ritual that requires the mother to seek a water body and fetch some water from there to bathe the bride or the groom. It was my brother's wedding. It was almost dusk. Treading the soft soil by the river Ganga, my mother dipped her 'ghat' or 'pot' to fill it with water. At the same time, conches echoed into the evening stillness, cymbals clashed and bells rang. The air was filled with shlokas (hymns) and incense fragrance. We turned around towards the steps of the bank and were witness to a spectacular show of spiritual reverence. Three priests in complete synchronization were performing the evening 'arti'  and spectators, mostly tourists, sat around engrossed in the show. Gradually there was a build up and the music was reaching a crescendo, and all around the onlookers were caught in it's grip, carried away by the fervour and intensity and sat as if in a trance. Such was the magic of the ethereal experience. And such has been the allure of Varanasi since time immemorial that has drawn luminaries, saints and scholars. Varanasi is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. 

    The old city of Varanasi on the banks of river Ganga, like many other old quarters of cities, is a labyrinth of twisting and turning lanes with homes and shops stacked on either sides. Although  these streets give a chaotic feel, they hold a charm of their own taking one to a bygone era. I remember a picture of Varanasi as a child, leafing through the pages of an Amar Chitra Katha (must have been the one on Adi Shankaracharya), of the many steps of the bank leading to the river Ganga with platforms in between. Ascetics and sages sitting on these paltforms meditating or offering discourse. I've come across this scenario many times later in paintings and photography. Varanasi is synonymous to spiritual enlightenment for the seekers. The numerous temples in the city are thronging with devotees. It is the Kashi Vishwanath temple that draws the most of the faithful. Pilgrims offer puja in the temple and then take a boat ride to the middle of the Ganga to offer earthen lamps and flowers in leaf bowls to the river. My sister-in-law, who belongs to this place, tells me that an evening boat ride during Dev Deepavali is a sight to behold. Thousands of lamps light up the river, floating stars on earth, with the arti taking place in the many 'ghats'. It is surreal to witness this from a distance with the blowing conches and bells ringing. I hope to be there one day on this occasion to be part of it.

   For the others, there is of course the thrill of shopping for the best Banarasi brocade sari, much sought after for weddings. While you are busy shopping you might as well pop in some 'pedas' to give you that extra sugar. How can one forget the Banarasi paan after that? The roads like I said, are extremely chaotic with all kinds of wheelers pushing their way through as they please nonchalantly. Driving around is definitely not for the faint hearted. In the middle of all this chaos stands Banaras Hindu University like a sweet haven, tranquil and orderly. The brainchild of Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya, BHU was started with the aim of eradicating poverty through dissipation of scientific knowledge and inculcating a thirst for knowledge. The campus is shaded by the many old trees and has a spacious feel with wide open green fields. The various departments and hostels are housed in heritage buildings that were financed by the business houses, royal families and philanthropists.

      Varanasi is a good place to explore the heritage, traditions and Hinduism as well as the surroundings. A place that has given India saints like Kabir, Ravidas, cultural icons like shehnai maestro Bismillah Khan, educationists, and even a style of Hindustani classical music famously termed Banaras gharana, my only wish is that this city be preserved as a heritage city.


This post was written for A to Z Challenge.

Udaipur

City Palace
Courtesy Wikipedia

                                         

         I remember turning around a bend with the Aravalli range for company and suddenly finding myself in this pretty city. It was like we had discovered a glittering jewel in the middle of the arid region after a long drive from Jaipur. It stood welcoming the tired traveller into it's folds with many lakes shimmering in the scorching sun and palaces that bespoke of a rich royal history. Udaipur has earned a few of sobriquets for itself " Venice Of East", " City of Lakes" and " White City".

       The undulating land, vestiges of the old Aravalli mountain, is a pleasant surprise for those expecting Rajasthan to be a desert area. One of the first things that we did, as any other excited tourist, was to visit the City Palace - a well conserved treasure of a rich royal Rajputana past. It is a palace that has grown over a period of time with successive generations of royalty adding to it's many complexes. The amalgamation of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture with European accessories speak of the confluence of different culture. Our guide delighted in presenting the famed Jag Niwas or the Lake Palace rising from the middle of the lake Pichola, from the many ornate balconies of the city palace. The Sheesh Mahal, Rang Bhawan, Amar Vilas, Badi Mahal, Dilkhusha Mahal,  Moti Mahal, Krishna Vilas, Bhim Vilas and others. It was interesting to note that although they were built at different times the city palace does not look like an haphazard installation. It emerges as a homogeneous structure interlinked by the many courtyards, gardens and zig-zagging corridors. The last part was to delay and thwart enemy intrusion. The collection of murals, paintings, artefacts, inlay work, mirror work within the palace are evidence of a rich aesthetic taste. There are some miniature painting artists just outside the palace whom you can watch at work and also buy.

     Another place that quite fascinated me was the "Saheliyon Ki Bari", a garden that was laid out for the 48 women attendants who came as  part of a princess's dowry. It took a while for it to sink that a king would get a garden made for the attendants and a breath taking one at that. Beautiful ornate gates, a lotus pool for the ladies to frolic around, elephant fountains as befitting royalty, pathways edged with green plants and pretty flowers, marble pavilions to rest the tired limbs,  trees under which they probably gossiped and giggled... My imagination was running away with me trying to visualise the rich life of the past. This place is definitely a must visit everyone. The water for the pools come from the Fateh Sagar Lake  through the many ducts. Saheliyon Ki Bari is as romantic as it can get.

    Enamoured by royal resplendence  we next visited Shilpgram 3 kms away from Udaipur near Havala village. It is a vast complex that brings together the lifestyles, arts and crafts of the many tribal people of the western zone. What struck me was the educational value of Shilpgram. There are prototypes of houses typical of the tribal people living in the member states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maharashtra, Goa. The approach to this whole concept was pretty interesting. A village was said to be self sufficient if it had a potter, a blacksmith, a carpenter and a weaver. This basic unit was taken up and elaborated  not just to showcase the homes but also to exhibit how environment, climate and  profession moulded their requirements. It also helped to compare the lifestyles of people of the same profession belonging to different regions. This is one place I would recommend to all visiting Udaipur and preferably the lean season so you have the place to explore at your own pace. This is where I took my first camel ride and have sworn never to bother that desert ship anymore with my weight. I can still never get over the lurches with every stride the camel took. I thought I was going to make a spectacle of myself when the camel got off it's haunches or sat down. There were also exciting moments like the one when I suddenly realised the folk song the Manganiyar artiste was belting out lustily was the original of the "Nimbuda nimbuda..." from the movie Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam.

   And with that haunting folk song from the desert we left Udaipur for the elevated place Mount Abu. Udaipur stayed on in my memory for the romance it weaved with the palaces, lakes, gardens nestled in the Aravalli hills. It's little wonder that most celebrities  have chosen this for their nuptial vows.


This post was written for the A to Z Challenge.

    

Trivandrum

Courtesy Wikipedia

                                         

            We were driving down from Wellington near Coonoor to Trivandrum during the short midterm break of DSSC. One of my local friends had mentioned that Thrissur was the jewellery hub of Kerala and also that the trade mark traditional brass lamps can be a good bargain here.This was the reason why we made a stop here, to gawk at the glittering yellow metal and settle for some pretty brass lamps. Having damaged the pocket even before hitting Cochin and spending some wonderful time exploring  the coastal beauty of Cochin, we were now on our way to Trivandrum. 

                                           

        We reached Trivandrum in the evening expecting it to be yet another bustling urbanised city. What we found was a laid back ambience and a city cushioned in greenery. It was extremely relaxing to go around this place. Since we were late to do anything worthwhile in the city, we chanced upon a concert taking place in a park. Taking in the fragrance of the jasmine strands that adorned the jet black hair of the pretty Malayali ladies, the carnatic music recital weaved magic into the evening. We certainly did not understand the lyrics but we did enjoy the classical strains of the recital.

       The next morning was reserved for a trip to the famed Sri Padmanabhaswamy temple in the heart of the city. It is synonymous to Trivandrum, actually, Thiruvananthapuram. The city derives it's name from this temple literally meaning ' the abode of Lord Anantha'. It was many years later  we came to know that this temple is the richest temple in the world after the litigation tussle that resulted in opening of the vaults of the temple revealing a staggering figure of almost 1..2 lakh crore as assets. However we were blissfully unaware of all the arithmatic during our visit. Just like we were unaware that men also had a dress code to follow before entering the temple. Since I was already in the requisite attire, my husband went scampering to the booth that rents out 'mundus' or dhotis. The gopuram was seven tiered, if I am not mistaken and extremely impressive. Inside we went looking for the Lord reclining on the coils of the  five hooded serpent but were first directed towards the other deities of lesser stature. How we got 'managed' by a priest' taking us here and there is still a mystery to me. And for every 'here and there' we were asked monetary offering that lessened the size of our pockets. And by the time we reached the Lord, we were whisked away after just a few seconds of glimpse. The complete saga of the origins of this temple and other details can be found in their site. This temple is centuries old with some extremely beautiful architectural details and sculpturing. I think we would have enjoyed the temple more if we were left alone to discover it for ourselves.  Do visit this temple but avoid the 'priests' inside if you can.

    Next in our itinerary was the Kovalam beach, for we could never have visited Trivandrum and given the famous Kovalam the miss. One of the first tourist destinations of India, patronised by the royal family and European families of colonial India,  the crescent shaped Koavalam with miles of shallow water, saw the wild side also with the influx of the hippies culture. This is why perhaps it was more tolerant of the concept of topless bathing in the Hawa beach sector, the only part of Kovalam where it was permitted. It has been banned since and is like any other beach now. The more famous part of it is the Light House beach as can be judged by the crowd. Kovalam is indeed picturesque and calm on week days and lean season, looking out into the placid water of the Arabian Sea. The numerous coconut groves that dot the shoreline gave the name to this place.

   Trivandrum is a lovely place for a holiday where one can take in the coastal beauty, seep in some history and royal splendour of the Travancore family and gorge on some of the yummiest, softest healthy  appams and idiappams  with  ishtew. My only regret is that our stay was too short. Hope to go back some day armed with more information and a lot wiser.


This post was written for the A to Z Challenge.