Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts

Saturday, 8 August 2015

S.C.U.B.A






               It was quiet.Very quiet down there. The only sound that could be heard was, the whooshing  of the breath drawn in and the gurgle of it going out. If it is a debut tryst with the deep waters, the silence can be quite disconcerting.  For us, it was such a relief that we  still  managed to breathe with all the thoughts of ' will--i-be-the-first-one-to-die- in-first-scuba-dive-experience'. All this while  holding on to the rope from the boat for dear life.

                                         


       The quest for the enchanting underwater life  had been fed by our delightful snorkeling experience in the Andamans, a few years back. If the surface skimming could reveal such rich under water flora and fauna, we were intrigued by what scuba diving would unleash! The colourful clown fish, starfish, corals of exquisite shades  had us eager eyed in a euphoric state of being. A determination arose silently to push the envelope further  with scuba diving. But it had to wait for a few years till we found an opportune trip to take us to the sea side once more.

                                   
                               



   It was after we literally took the plunge, it sank in that scuba diving was an altogether  different ball game or water game, if you please. The terrified  look on Hrithik Roshan's face before the dive was underplayed in the movie ZNMD. Or it might be that having Katrina Kaif as an instructor diverted the petrified mind. The time we left our resort for the waiting launch off the Bang Rak beach, the entire Koh Samui seemed to stretch out languorously after a good night's sleep. The only shutters that were up, were the all night departmental shops and the divers shops. We had stopped enroute to try out our diving gears for the right size. There are many operators here and we relied once again on Mike to connect us to the right one since his advice on travel to Koh Samui from Bangkok  had stood us in good stead. On board the Easy Divers launch, we found ourselves in a motley group of different nationalities seeking the same thrill of going down. They had tested many waters whereas we were first timers.


                                   


   Pulling away from the shore with anticipation spreading out like the sea, leaving the pretty white boats bobbing up and down, the towering Big Buddha receded gradually as we sped into the open waters. The Scuba diving site for the day was the Ang Thong  Marine Park which was almost three hours away from the shore. Since there are quite a few dive sites around Koh Samui, there are different days of the week allotted to each of them. Each of these dive sites are popular for their own reasons. It was Ang Thong Marine Park for us, it being a Thursday.  On our way, Toddy, the instructor who would be our guiding star, explained the techniques the hand signals to be used under water, the gauge to be monitored. We lapped it all up like obedient students feeling very sure that thumbs up signal ( to surface if uncomfortable) was going to be least used.
" You will hold on to each child and we will stay together, is that okay?" we nodded eagerly to his instruction.

   Feeling none less than Carl Sagan splashing in and out of water in his iconic Cosmos, the first diver I ever saw ( yes, yes I am that antique),  we jumped into the Gulf of Siam, off the archipelago Marine Park, with the weight belts around the waist, the oxygen tanks strapped behind, the mask on our face, the life jacket inflated. All the dreams of seamless dive, fluid and graceful piscean movement went up with that first splash. It took us a while to realize that the oxygen tanks were strapped a little off the center that had us floating in a lop sided manner. Fear had it's grip on us. And quite strongly. With arms and legs flaying in all directions in the most awkward  manner, we finally managed to hold on to the rope decently. Gathering our senses and wits that had run askew, it was time to rehearse the signals and to monitor the oxygen gauge and to try the equalizer. All this under water. While our two ducklings had morphed into fish, the mother duck was sending all kinds of prayers to stay alive.


   Going down, the equalizer helped the body to adjust to the pressure difference. It's a simple technique of blowing against the ears with the nose pinched, the same that we practice on flights and high altitudes. Toddy and Paul kept asking us if we were alright and it didn't take us long to figure out how important that thumbs up signal was. We surfaced many times trying to adjust sustaining under water. Toddy looked at Paul, during one such surfacing,
" I think, you and I will have to hold  the children"
I was never more relieved to hand over my children into hands safer than ours.
After many trials  and errors and gulping the sea water, we did manage to descend gingerly, stopping every now and then to equalize which did us a lot good. Trusting the oxygen mask,the tube,the cylinders and the mouth piece and the team, we learnt to let go.

  I think that was very important. To trust and to let go. To not be burdened with anxieties and anticipations. It was important to flow with the moment and relax. Our  flippers stroked the water taking us forward. Paul's gentle push guided us to the coral reef and suddenly we found  friends swimming along with us. Many tawny striped little ones emerged from around a rock and hurried of as if on an errand. Almost brushing past sea urchins settled on rocks nibbling at the moss, we soaked in the tranquil sights by the eyeful. The diffused sunlight spread a soft veil all around lending the surroundings a surreal feel. The visibility was not what we had experienced in the Andamans, but swimming along the reef and rocks with marine life going about their regular life was exciting.

  Time had it's own pace and before we knew, it was time to surface. All those minutes spent in learning to let go seemed such a waste when we could have utilized them to explore the world down there. It was time to turn back and head for the shore. A day spent exploring not  just a part of the sea but also the self.


                                       




  So would I do this again? Absolutely! Knowing well that I will yet again find it difficult to let go initially. That I managed to overcome my fear of deep water when even the deep end of a swimming pool left me in jitters is something to reckon with. Attempting such feats can send up rewarding moments such as coming across dolphins frolicking out of the  blue and so close - the privilege of finding a window to a world so different from ours. We watched Toddy silently communicate to another fast approaching boat  to cut the engine and drift because these lovelies were out playing and frisking around.  The  sight of the smooth grey graceful bodies arch out of the water followed by the glimpse of  a perfect tail following close behind is what I'll remember for a long long time.

   

Monday, 18 May 2015

A Market In Koh Samui


   On Fridays the entire Koh Samui comes alive in Bo Phut beach  with the weekly walking market in Fisherman's village. While on other days you can ride or drive through the street flanked with shops, restaurants and bars, on Fridays just park your vehicle and stroll around the stalls that the vendors line up on the streets. You can't miss it. Ask anyone and they will guide you to Fisherman's village on a Friday evening. I shall leave the story of the lively market here for a short while. Let me begin the travel story from the top...
         
                                     
                                 
                                                           Fisherman's Village Market

       Hunched in front of the monitor for hours till the body refuses to straighten up; scouring the internet for the best options; zeroing down on the probables and then long distance discussion at length with the hubby to close a deal; is our idea of planning a vacation. Painful? Ah! But we like to know exactly where we are going and where will we be staying. And yes,our most important discussions take place over the phone...you guessed it, that's when they( husbands) are most attentive. If I need to be heard, I wait for him to leave and then make a call. Voila! He is all ears! But I digress.

   Destination  was Thailand. And we were not interested in a Bangkok-Phuket-Pattaya-Koh Phi Phi etc etc. After trawling the travel blog posts for days we finally agreed that Koh Samui would be a good place to unwind. From the many beaches there, it was Bang Po that caught our eye although Chaweng and Lamai are the most popular ones for their powder soft sand and shaded teal water. Well! Actually, it was the wooden cottage bang on the beach that nailed it and the prices. It's not rocket science to comprehend that a tourist infested area translates into shelling out more. however, it was love at first sight for me, the price tag came in later. If you look at the picture you will know what I mean. I fell hook, line and sinker for it. And once there I realized I'd found my ideal holiday accommodation. I would have traded my house keeping skills for a life long stay here.

                             

Coconut Paradise Wooden Villa




Adorable Kitchen

   We were contemplating the most cost effective plan to reach Koh Samui from Bangkok, considering that  the baht is double the rupee, when a friend, Mike, chipped in with his advice. He should know for he, an ex army officer, organizes biking tours not just in Leh, Western Ghats, but also abroad like across Northern Thailand through his Victorianz. Koh Samui does have an airport but it is the expensive Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways that flew in and out. There are overnight trains and buses that ply from Bangkok to Surat Thani. Since we were travelling with senior citizens, we opted for the easier option. He suggested we check the Nok Air, the low cost domestic airlines. Nok Air flies to Surat Thani and from their the passengers are taken by coaches to the pier and then on by cruise to Koh Samui. All  this was inclusive in the return Nok Air fare which was around three thousand Thai Bahts approximately per head. The travel time is roughly five hours from the Don Mueang airport in Bangkok to Koh Samui. Despite the many halts and changes in transport, the journey was  hassle free and easy on the pocket. We just had to board the waiting coach and the waiting cruise.

   Koh Samui let us  relax and soak in the moments of the salt laden breeze and the gentle lapping of the waves at Bang Po. The sand is coarser than the much sought after Chaweng and Lamai white beaches but it is quieter. No touristy crowd, touts and vendors taking up every space on the beach and shops lined up to distract you and lighten your pocket. Since we had a fully functional and an adorable kitchen, grocery shopping took us to a fresh market that had us surprised. A flippant remark from my father " if you are going out, get me some tamul paan" like he would, back in Assam ask for the areca nut and betel leaves, had us replying " yeah! sure!".
Picking up some eggs at the fresh market I suddenly jumped," Oh My God! Tamul paan!"
Stacked neatly in packets were green betel leaves and the nuts to go with it, complete with lime and tobacco! The Burmese vendor was so happy to know we were from Assam that he added an extra egg to our lot.

  There are many activities to keep you occupied in Koh Samui like island hopping to Ko Phangan, Ko Tao, snorkelling, scuba diving, water sports and so on. Since we were there only for three days, rushing around was not our idea of a holiday. Setting aside one full day for scuba diving, we generally soaked in the Koh Samui air, lulled by the gentle waves on Bang Po and refreshed by the lush tropical flowers and foliage heavily scenting the evening sky.

  One such evening, our last on the island, happened to be a Friday. Fisherman's village in Bo Phut, is where the action is with hundreds of lights brightening up the place. An array of food on skewers grilling and roasting, fill the air. Between the many eatery stalls are those selling curios, mementos, garments,spices, packed Thai food to carry back home, accessories, aroma oils. From five to eleven in the evening, this little place in Koh Samui show cases all  that is Thai mingled with the expat trends.

    One of the stalls caught my attention with it's wrist bands, t-shirts and other accessories in red, green, yellow and black. Looking up I saw the legendary Rastafarian gazing out with contemplation from a fluttering banner. Bob Marley seemed to have found resonance in this island with many bars belting out his reggae numbers. Some included bars themed after him. Probably having arrived with the backpackers and the western tourists, the reggae icon just stayed on in the islanders'imagination blending with their life. We just strolled around checking out stuff, friendly bargaining and warm smiles all around. So a normal bargaining scenario after we quoted our price would be like;
"Oh! Cannot Madam! Cannot!"  with the most disenchanted look on the vendor's face. Then out comes a calculator and he or she quickly types the lowest selling price for us to see so there is no ambiguity left in the communication of the right figure. The figure quoted, in turn, horrifies us and so with a smile and a pulled look (practice this, really!) we utter,
"Can! Can! Oh! Please can!"
Thus the banter continues for another few minutes till the desperate one succumbs to the implores of the other. English is not exactly a  universal language we realize, even in Asian countries. There were moments of exasperation but it was fun. In any case it was far better than Bangkok where we were literally pulling our hair apart reaching nowhere with the language issue.

      Fisherman's market is not just another mundane market, it feels more alive with the variety of stuff, shops and stalls. If there are stalls with naked bulbs to light up the wares, there are also artsy corners for a relaxed evening with a drink. There is live music right on the road or a band playing in a restaurant. Some of these restaurants are beautifully done up providing a cozy ambience with greens hanging all around and the fragrant blossoms weighed down from the eaves. You can stroll around, pick your stuff, sit down with a drink,  ramble around again looking at the curios, pick up a skewer grilling on the fire, listen to some wonderful music to soothe away those tired limbs or walk into a cute restaurant.  That's what you do in the Fisherman's village market.

    The market is teeming with people and yet there is no jostling. And believe me, time just flies and it flies beautifully! When the last of the Pad Thai is scraped from the bottom of the urns, packing up the empty cauldrons and the last of the curios and fridge magnets laid into the cartons, attempt a last minute bargain. With a smile. Clutching your goodies, grab a bottle of beer and walk down to the pier and feel some far off music bouncing off the waves...Ah! Koh Samui ! The Chinese named it well..."safe haven"...

 

 


                                   

Colourful Knick Knacks




Frangipani Hair Clips




Skewered Seafood And Meat





Bob Marley Stall



Accessories in Rastafarian Colours



A Woman's Delight


An Artist By The Road


A Green Cafe


Fragrant Rangoon Creeper  Adding To The Magic